Thursday, 6 October 2011

As i sit here...


... I start to reflect. I left Malaysian Borneo.

I appreciate every traveller-type starts to wax lyrical about how all they need is their bag on their back and the simplicities that life offers when you are fortunate. I’m hopefully not going to do that. (As a rule with these mails, I don’t edit them so I a genuinely quite curious what gems I am going to spout).
*new paragraph*
I am content with my life as it is at the moment. I am surrounded by good people with, strong hearts and giving personalities. The sun is shining at the moment, it’s warm, having not had a hot shower in almost a month I now have perma-hot water from a natural hot spring. Talk about going from one extreme to the other! I haven’t changed my clothes properly for 2 weeks. My hair is matted. My beard is dull and lifeless. UNFORGIVEABLE. I have cuts, grazes and bruises all over my body (including a split above my eye gained from a flying can of beer in the dark. More about that later). All in all, each mark or blemish make me feel a little happier that I am outside constantly. I sleep outside often, I eat outside almost always and I walk somewhere to somewhere else daily. I think that is what I will miss. The mud, blood sweat and fears. There have been no tears, but I have to cross this bridge each day and I shit myself every time I do. I was not designed to carry me.

Last time I wrote I had been in the jungles on my own. For those of your who entered the ‘Back to the start’ 10Ringit mega-competition, the answer was Razorlight. Sadly no one won this time so the prize will be rolled over into a 20Ringit super-Saturday giveaway this time. I was camping here and there, walking there and here. Sometimes with a clue of where I was often with no idea whatsoever, just a firm belief that I would find where I was aiming for when I got there.

Eventually, with some luck and some judgement I placed myself on a path I knew well and stayed there a day and a half, I saw monkeys wander through the tree tops and heard gibbons VERY near. Then, I was woken by a human whistling. It was Rian, the local jungle hero and an old friend from my trip. Embarrassingly, I had slept until 12pm. I joined him and we walked on to RiverSnail camp. He had found an abandoned baby civet cat in one of the previous camps and had rescued him. I called him Derek. He was AWESOME. He liked sleeping in my sleeve. As you can imagine, I loved him greatly but sadly he died after 6 days in our car after a VERY cold night in the highlands.

I wandered back to Pa’ Umor with Rian and Jaun – his assistant. Jaun is 27, dark skinned, softly spoken, kind and strangely petite to look at BUT built like a tank. I don’t have a man-crush on him. I DON’T OK! We talked, drank, smoked, ate and pondered many of life’s intricacies at Rian’s house. Eventually Jimmy arrived and the pattern continued with an added healthy dose of Britishness. The inaugural night at ‘The VIP’ happened. This mystical fortress of wonderment was actually just Rian’s balcony, but it was about the size of a booth at a club and so we acted and treated it that way. ) We mainly drank ChapappĂ© (CA), pronounced chup-app-pey. It’s a local spirit deemed to have medicinal properties. It’s quite nice really and generally drunk with strong dark tea as a mixer. LOVELY. At £3 a bottle it is the cheapest and most pleasant way to get obliterated.

On a walk home for Pa’ Umor, in the pitch black from the local (8km away). Jim thought it would be a good idea to throw me a beer, again, I stress in the pitch black... We didn’t have torches because we said we wouldn’t be out late. Famous last words. The can hit me HARD above the eye. I bled a bit. It has healed nicely now.

THEN, I met the hippy Canadian – Stu. This is a fella who is doing everything right. He is a carpenter, a self proclaimed ideas man and an all-round good guy. He has built, and I mean, literally he himself has built a few cabins in his pineapple farm with a plunge pool for washing. The water was gorgeously clear and invigoratingly cold. BLISS. I know I have used this word a few times but honestly I cannot think of a better word. Utopia could creep in there but I think that is a pretty big statement. There is only one other occasion back home that I regularly use the word bliss/blissful and that relates to my weekend holidays at Glastonbury. Anyway. Stu and Rose (his wife) were wonderful hosts and the growers of the FINEST pineapples in the area which is a fairly HUGE accolade considering Bario is famed for its pineapples. They are IN-CREDIBLE. I genuinely need another level of superlative. Out of this world? But. They are OF this world so maybe beyond comprehension. He also dries them and makes fruit roll from the pulp mixed with local cane sugar. Joyous.

I learned how to cook some cool things – river fern, curried tomato, fried rice, crispy fish soup and chilli fried tree grubs (surprisingly tasty) the list goes on.

It was with great amount of joy that Oz with his big potato head arrived a few days before I left. We drank CA with gay abandon, then gin with gayer abandon and THEN, headed to town. I say town, I mean to the only road in Bario with its two supermarkets/bars. We continued to drink and play pool. I am not sure if you remember but, I receive a (mortal) would in battle OR basically a can to the face from Jimmy depending on who I tell the story to. Upon talking Oz through this, while playing pool, we drunkenly decided that the stakes for the game should be that the looser has to punch Jimmy in the face. It made for an interesting game. Ultimately we played a few game, punch Jimmy a few times. As if this isn’t fun enough, Jimmy went on to lose a game to Oz. Jimmy is very good at pool. Having lost, he had to punch himself in the face. Bravo Jim. Good sport.

Since starting this email, I have moved on to the next place and new chapter in The Bearded Jungleman chronicles. I MIGHT have to update the name to Bearded Diving Jungleman. Give me some time on that one though.

I am now in Dauin on the island of Negros. I am stupidly happy/lucky/happy/lucky (repetition intended). I have my own beachfront bungalow with an en-suite and the afore mention perma-hot water. I am on cloud 9. Everyone here is friendly, laid back, happy and most importantly WONDERFUL. I think I will fit in well here. So far, I arrived with my humungor bag and a smile and now, I have a room with music, wireless(ish) and an even bigger smile. I am unfashionably content at the mo. I can’t wait for some of you to come see me here. (You really should. It. IS. AMAZING). Yeah, I know. I used bold. That’s how good it is. My breakfast was toasted muesli, fresh pineapple, banana, coconut, mango AND pear/apple WITH MILK. I mean real milk. I have not had mild since I left the UK.

I am sorry if this is a slightly schizophrenic missive. I have written in a few sittings. I hope it conveys how content I am and expresses my gratitude to the world. For me, it’s the thought that at any moment, we would be taken away from this world, a wrong move while driving and badly judged handhold when climbing and bang. You’re gone. Right now, I am living like I mean it and just to re-iterate, I am very thankful that life has enabled me to be able to do this. Thanks life. Thanks world.

Life is good.

Love (meant in its purest sense),

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I learned three things today.
1 sour skittles in Malaysian are ACTUALLY amazingly sour. This is a good thing
2 Pedicures are ok
3 Faizal Tahir’s acoustic version of his song Hanyut is beautiful

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